The Old Town's many restaurants provide a good introduction to Polish cuisine…and central to that is vodka. If he pointed to the right, the prisoner marched — unknowingly — directly to the gas chamber. Nineteenth-century houses — the few that survive — often sport colorful stripes. Season 9 Episode 5. Driving through the countryside back to Kraków refreshes travelers with a look at today's peaceful rural Poland. Kaisa: You can chase it. Go 1,000 feet underground in the vast Wieliczka Salt Mine, near Kraków, to tour the inactive mine and see the statues and chapels the religious miners carved out of the black salt over the centuries. The cathedral interior is slathered in Baroque memorials and tombs, decorated with tapestries, and soaked in Polish history. The city's history is rich, its sights are fascinating, and the prices are some of Europe's lowest. Seeing the camp can be difficult. It holds the tombs of Poland's greatest rulers and historic figures. And salt preserves everything. Breakfast was included and it was the most extensive, delicious food we ever had at a hotel. The ruins stand as a memorial. P.S. Take me as example, I’m 65 years old and I’m still fresh, still young. Only 1 left in stock - order soon. Birkenau is on a much bigger scale and mostly outdoors, with the infamous guard tower, a vast field with ruins of barracks, a few tourable rough barracks, the notorious "dividing platform," a giant monument flanked by remains of destroyed crematoria, and a prisoner processing facility called "the Sauna.". Respectful tourists are welcome. Kaisa: Do you know how to drink vodka? Before the war, Warsaw's Old Town Square was one of the most happening spots in Central Europe. This is a country where the most expensive café on the most expensive perch serves drinks for a fraction of what you'd expect. 5 days in poland. Be sure to mention the name of the episode so that others can follow along and join the conversation. Wawel Cathedral is Poland's national church — its "Westminster Abbey." Join Rick as he explores the most surprising and fascinating land he's ever visited - Iran. The colorful architecture reminds locals and tourists alike of the prewar glory of the Polish capital. Kasia: Imagine, Poland was crunched between Protestant Germany and Orthodox Russia. People were told they'd be starting new lives and to bring luggage — clearly labeled with their names. Travel engages me with our world, and helps me feel fully alive. "Auschwitz" actually refers to a series of several camps in Poland — most importantly Auschwitz I, in the village of Oświęcim (50 miles west of Kraków), and Auschwitz II, a.k.a. 0:55:02. Collapse. Though the sight is a bit overrated, it's unique and practically obligatory if you're in Kraków for at least two days. More Buying Choices $1.98 (18 used & new offers) DK Eyewitness Krakow (Travel Guide) by DK Eyewitness | Feb 20, 2018. 0. The charm of today's Kraków lies in its medieval roots. CATALOG NUMBER 310.3. Warsaw's Royal Way — a mostly buses- and taxis-only shopping boulevard — is a local favorite for strolling, and browsing, and ultimately leads you to Warsaw's historic Old Town. The population of the ghetto was down to about 60,000 when those who remained realized that they would die even if they did nothing. With Rick Steves. 8.2 (11) 0. Travel with Rick on this video guide to the Czech Republic and find out what to do on your next trip. A quarter of a million Poles were killed. Glasgow: Gritty Industry and Feisty Scottish Culture, Neuschwanstein: “Mad” King Ludwig’s Castle in Bavaria. Chat about your favorite shows. In the Middle Ages, this was where the cloth sellers had their market stalls. Fixed iFrame Width: in pixels px Height: in pixels px. When the tour’s over a small but industrial-strength lift beams you up. The Jewish cemeteries of Kazimierz were defiled by the Germans, bulldozed by Nazi tanks. Share your comments on Rick Steves’ Europe TV shows with other travelers and with Rick! The small houses are traditionally used by three generations at the same time. This time we're in Poland with such a rich history and a promising future. Eventually Kraków's power waned. But locals cherish the thought that Chopin's inspiration came from memories of wind blowing through the willow trees of his native land, Poland. Like much of Poland, Kraków pulses with cool jazz nightly. Today, this delightful and people-friendly green belt — a park called the Planty — circles Kraków's Old Town. St. Mary's Church faces Kraków's marvelous Market Square. Also: a romantic forest; sampling chocolate-cherry cake. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Poland. It’s vast: nine levels…1000 feet deep…over a hundred miles of tunnels. Deep beneath the ground, the mine is filled with sculptures that miners have lovingly carved out of the salt. Vodka, after it's chilled properly, pours thickly into the glass. While Warsaw was in the sphere of Moscow and therefore more Eastern and conservative, Kraków has long been more Western and liberal. Kaisa: Ok, first of all, na zdrowie (toast). Catholicism defines the Poles, holding them together when nothing else could. And salt preserves everything. Old world charm is how I would describe it. Romania. Rate. They crammed Warsaw's Jews into a single neighborhood and surrounded it with a wall. Rick Steves' Europe. They watched, and waited. Because the Nazis leveled the ghetto, there is literally nothing left except the street plan, some monuments, and the heroic spirit of its former residents. Rate. Rate. When built, in the 13th century, this was the biggest square in medieval Europe. Rick Steves' Europe. Barcelona and Catalunya. Rate. However, the top-notch Museum of the History of Polish Jews has rejuvenated the area, making it even more of a magnet for those interested in this chapter of Polish history. We're having some traditional Polish dishes that go well with vodka: herring, cold cuts, Polish pickles, and steak tartare. Copy failed. This is the oldest chapel in this part of the salt mine, Saint Anthony chapel from 17th century. The bricks are worn smooth by countless inmates who sat here to catch a little warmth in the middle of a bitter Polish winter. While the 1944 Warsaw Uprising is a recurring theme in virtually all Warsaw sightseeing, two sights in particular are worth a visit for anyone with a special interest: The Warsaw Uprising Monument (at plac Krasinskich) and the thorough, modern Warsaw Uprising Museum (inconveniently located a 10-minute tram ride west of the central train station — but well worth the trip for history buffs). All the full length Rick Steves Europe PBS Episodes that I could find. By the 19th century, the city wall was no longer necessary. Episode 311: Budapest: The Best of Hungary. After centuries of living relatively peacefully in Poland, Warsaw's Jews suffered terribly at the hands of the Nazis. Perhaps the best way to enjoy that is at a klezmer dinner concert. It provided extra protection at the town's main gate. This hill is where Kazimierz the Great turned a small fortress into a mighty Gothic castle in the 14th century (only bits of its foundation remain, as the original fortress burned to the ground in 1499). I find Polish culture and history both compelling and confusing. I mean it's just like…wow! This is the oldest chapel in this part of the salt mine, Saint Anthony chapel from 17th century. Rate. S3, Ep6. Or in the Cloth Hall. It's free to reserve, but spaces book up very early. To get away from the tourists' Kraków, bike or hike around the Planty and up the park that lines the Vistula River. Local merchants then resold their wares at a profit…and the city thrived. Kaisa: And please don't sip it. His scribes bragged "Kazimierz found Poland made of wood, and left it made of brick and stone" — he even made it onto the 50-złoty note. Compared to the rest of Europe, Polish churches are alive with people practicing their faith. Back in Kraków, cap your day in one of the town's many jazz clubs. Rick: Yeah. 10. They murdered over 4 million European Jews in Poland. That's why I like it. Season 3 Episode 13. Since liberation day in 1945, millions have visited this place. Rick Steves' Europe. Wieliczka, a salt mine 10 miles southeast of Kraków, is beloved by Poles. As the smoke cleared and the Nazis retreated, the Red Army marched in and claimed the pile of rubble that was once Warsaw. The castle long served as a royal palace. 4.5 out of 5 stars 28. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Warsaw emerged as the dominant city in Poland and Kraków remained a provincial backwater of the Habsburg Empire, ruled from Vienna. Poland's two must-see cities are Warsaw and Kraków. If you think you're good at chess, challenge one of these guys. After they were killed, everything of value was sorted and warehoused. And learning from this country's recent past, I'm reminded we have much to be thankful for and much to be vigilant against. Explore Poland! keywords So if all you want is the best of Poland, this compact Snapshot guide delivers everything you'll need to know — for about half the price and half the bulk. As we ramble through the heart of Rome, we'll admire breathtaking Bernini statues and ponder sunbeams inside St. Peter's Basilica. With Rick Steves. Auschwitz I, where public transportation from Kraków arrives, has the main museum building, the Arbeit Macht Frei gate, and indoor museum exhibits in former prison buildings. Error: please try again. As more Jewish people were moved in from the countryside, Warsaw's ghetto was soon the miserable home of well over a million people. 4.6 out of 5 stars 13. With the expectation of help from Soviet tanks which were gathering just across the river, it seemed like the right time to attack. Rate. The Nazis turned this army base into a death camp. Today this city is Poland's leading tourist attraction…with plenty of top-notch sights. The Cloth Hall is still a functioning market — selling mostly souvenirs, including wood carvings, chess sets, jewelry (especially amber), painted boxes, and trinkets. To Poles, this church is the national mausoleum. Video: Watch Czech Republic Beyond Prague, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. Today — whether you're looking for a fancy egg, some traditional embroidery, or a little amber — it's your one-stop souvenir-shopping arcade. Jump to bottom. Halls are lined with photographs of victims, each marked with dates of arrival and dates of death — inmates rarely survived more than a couple of months. Back then you couldn't just sell things anywhere. Watch Rick Steves' Europe - Season 4, Episode 10 - Salzburg and Surroundings: Rick visits the birthplace of Mozart and explores the delightful romantic town of Hallstatt. Everything here, including the ornate altar and the grand chandelier, is hewn from this underworld of salt. This post is part of a series of 10 European Discoveries for 2019 — off-the-beaten-path gems where you can escape the tourist rut and find a corner of Europe all your own. Rick: I'm ready. The resilience of Poland's culture and the warmth of its people inspire me. They poured out of the sewers and caught the Nazis off-guard, initially having great success. The big, round defensive fort standing outside the wall is a barbican. Season 10 Episode 1006 | 25m 2s | Video has closed captioning. The original church was destroyed by the first Tatar invasion in 1241, but all subsequent versions — including the current one — have been built on the same foundation. He was a great warrior, diplomat, patron of the arts, and womanizer. Kraków grew wealthy from trade in the 12th century. Hopelessly outgunned by the Nazis, the uprising was crushed, the ghetto was demolished, and its residents were killed. In Warsaw we stayed at the Polonia Palace hotel which was also a splurge at $150 a night. FREE Shipping by Amazon . Auschwitz II, or Birkenau, was a vast factory of death holding 100,000 people. It was here that families from all over Europe were torn apart forever. We don't sip vodka. Locals tore down most of it, filled in the moat, and planted trees. Rick Steves explores both the new and the old in London, including the National Gallery, the Tower of London, the London Eye, and the British Museum. Several eateries on ulica Szeroka offer klezmer music, typically starting between 19:00 and 20:00. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Take me as example, I'm 65 years old and I'm still fresh, still young. In the 14th century, when other nations were deporting Jews, King Kazimierz actively welcomed them. To me, the thriving city itself is the best memorial to those Warsaw heroes. Thanks for joining us. This uniquely eclectic church is the product of centuries of haphazard additions…yet somehow, it works. Smaller text Larger text. Before posting, please read our Community Guidelines. Rate. Copy Copied! People were given hooks to hang their clothes on, conned into thinking they were coming back. He granted them special banking and trading privileges, and established the long-standing tradition of Poland being a safe haven for Jews in Europe. To really focus on klezmer as an art form, pay a bit more to attend a concert, performed most summer nights in several synagogues (for the latest lineup, check for fliers around town, or ask at any tourist information office). The neighborhood of Kazimierz, 20 minutes by foot southeast of Kraków's Old Town, is the historic heart of Kraków's once-thriving Jewish community. Everything here around us is made of salt — even the chandelier is salt crystal. It was essential to survive this harsh climate. Proud miners carved figures of great Poles out of the salt. 5. Skilled klezmer musicians can make their instruments weep or laugh like human voices. Every country's had its ups and downs. The camp monument represents gravestones and the chimney of a crematorium. Headstones — broken under tank treads — now create a moving mosaic wall and Holocaust monument. It's bottoms up! The highlight of the entire castle complex is the cathedral. see our FAQ. A castle has stood here since the 11th century. Each inmate had an ID number, a barrack number, and a bed number. Two chimneys connected by a brick duct provided a little heat. After the Tartars destroyed their city, Krakovians built this imposing wall. Poland Rediscovered: Krakow, Auschwitz and Warsaw | KCET. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. Kaisa: Okay, let's do it. Rick Steves' Europe. Guide: The total number of chapels in this mine is over 20. Though legendary saxophonist Janusz Muniak passed away in 2016, his famous club is still the best for all-around jazz in a sophisticated cellar environment. Stay tuned for lots of Rick Steves’ Europe this fall — including episodes on Portugal (Lisbon and the country’s heartland), the heart of England, Greek islands, Sicily (Best of Sicily and Sicilian Delights), Scotland (Glasgow, Highlands, and islands), cruising travel skills, and two special episodes on Europe’s greatest festivals. The Nazis arrived in 1939. Video: Watch Prague, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. In the 1930s, a quarter of Kraków's population was Jewish. As with the rest of Poland, the real tragedies came with the Nazis and World War II. With a million and a half visitors each year, Auschwitz struggles with crowd control. Reservations are required — whether visiting on your own or joining a guided tour. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Poland and find out what to do on your next trip. Some come to worship and others to remember leading figures in Polish history, such as Kazimierz the Great. The remarkable Wieliczka Salt Mine — just outside of Kraków — has been producing salt for eight centuries. Episode 310: Poland Rediscovered: Kraków, Auschwitz, and Warsaw. You'll see legends from the days of King Kazimierz, when one-third of Poland's income came from these precious deposits: the famous astronomer Copernicus, and even the region's favorite son, Pope John Paul II. Post questions and answers about travel in Poland. In the northeast corner of Europe, Poland is one of the largest countries on the Continent. Are you ready? But Auschwitz victims and their families want tourists to come here, to experience the scale and the monstrosity of the place in human terms, in hope that the Holocaust will never be forgotten. You’ll see legends from the days of King Kazimierz, when one-third of Poland’s income came from these precious deposits: the famous astronomer Copernicus, and even the region’s favorite son, Pope John Paul II. Rick Steves’ Europe is public television’s most-watched, longest-running travel series. Hopefully they take away a determination to learn from the holocaust, and never let it be repeated. Sigismund III — the great king who moved Poland's capital from Kraków to Warsaw in 1596 — stands overseeing everything. We'll visit its historic capital, Kraków, side trip to a salt mine, and to a concentration camp, then head for Poland's modern capital, Warsaw. Its outskirts sprawl with Communist-built apartment blocks. A Nazi doctor stood here and evaluated each prisoner as they stepped off the train. by Rick Steves and Cameron Hewitt | Jun 19, 2012. During the partition in the 19th century, we didn't even show on the map but we survived — thanks to being Polish, and thanks to being Catholics. Virtually everything you see is rebuilt. 8. 2019 Discovery: Gdańsk, Poland. For more information, contact Lisa Werner at lisaw@ricksteves.com or Hope Reed at 520-622-1393. About a year later, the rest of the city staged another ill-fated uprising: the Warsaw Uprising. The monument commemorates those who fought and died "for the dignity and freedom of the Jewish Nation, for a free Poland, and for the liberation of humankind.". As Polish and Jewish culture mingled here for so many centuries, it's hard to distinguish between Jewish and Polish cuisine. The mine’s enormous underground church, carved in the early 20th century, is still used for Mass. Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Poland / 5 days in poland; Please sign in to post. Today, as you explore, it's hard to imagine that by 1945 nearly two-thirds of the city's prewar population was dead, and not a building was standing in Warsaw's "Old" Town. On a balmy summer night, Kazimierz's main square, ulica Szeroka, is filled with the haunting strains of klezmer — traditional Jewish music from 19th-century Poland, generally with violin, string bass, clarinet, and accordion. And nestled in the center of all this utilitarian concrete are plenty of urban charms. The Palace of Culture and Science — Poland's tallest building, at over 700 feet — is a Warsaw landmark. Episode 312: Lisbon and the Algarve. One of Europe's most gasp-worthy public spaces, it bustles with life. We are planning to have 2 nights at Krakow and 1 day trip to Auschwitz. Everything had to be sold here on the market square. And the city's legendary mermaid welcomes friends while keeping out foes. Even though Poland's political capital moved from here to Warsaw 400 years ago, Kraków remains the country's cultural and intellectual center. Check your local listings for air dates. If you don't trust me you can taste it. European Festivals I. Because of the ferocity of Nazi hatred, nothing remains of the ghetto except the street plan and the heroic spirit of the people who once lived here. Poland. Explore Europe with Rick Steves, best-selling travel author and host of public television's "Rick Steves' Europe" and public radio's "Travel with Rick Steves." Kaisa: What a question! Start a New Topic. Krakow, with its bubbly Baroque and cobbled charm, is emerging as the exciting "next Prague." But the Nazis regrouped, and brutally put down the Warsaw Uprising. When the tour's over a small but industrial-strength lift beams you up. Guide: The total number of chapels in this mine is over 20. Up to 700 people at a time could be gassed, but it required two days to burn that many bodies here. Resilient Krakovians took this opportunity to rebuild their city with a near-perfect grid plan — a striking contrast to the narrow, mazelike lanes of most medieval towns. Episode 313: Sevilla. Rick: Show me. Read more. Today it's busy not with miners, but with tourists. Auschwitz was the biggest and most notorious concentration camp in the Nazi system. Rate. During the Nazi occupation there were two heroic uprisings: First, the Jewish Ghetto Uprising. Twelve new episodes include Portugal (Lisbon and the country's heartland), the heart of England, Greek islands, Sicily, and Scotland (Glasgow, Highlands, and islands). Because it was to be "Soviet in substance and Polish in style," Soviet architects actually toured Poland to absorb the local culture before starting the project. The crematorium is marked by its chimney. If you don’t trust me you can taste it. But across the grounds of the castle you can uncover more fragments of Kraków's history, and have the opportunity to visit several museums. 7. Now what? The mine's enormous underground church, carved in the early 20th century, is still used for Mass. Now he owns the Jazz Club U Muniaka, and jams regularly here in a mellow cellar. Through all this, the Soviets sat here, across the river. Rick Steves' Europe. Several powerful museums are dedicated to telling the story. 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